So of course, the faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. Some of the older cameras would give these kind of specs so you knew how the camera was setup to come up with the minimum illumination. You need to run minimum 1/60 shutter to start to minimize blur.īut now they don't even provide that, so in most cases it is a wide open iris, slowest shutter the camera allows, and gain and brightness cranked to 100 so that they can get the lowest illumination number possible.īut nobody would run the camera in that configuration. Once upon a time manufacturers would at least say at what shutter speed that rating was based on. Heck darn near every camera will say 0 LUX with IR on. The 5442 4MP2.8mm fixed lens camera will beat the socks off the 5241 2MP 2.8mm fixed lens or a Reolink and they both say 0 Lux with IR on. Regarding minimum illumination, Many do not pay attention to the minimum illumination specs.because those are under ideal situations with so many factors not known.Īlmost every camera will say 0 LUX with infrared or white LED on, and we all know how poorly Reolinks perform at night in low light yet that is their spec.or even two different good cameras. Sure if you throw enough infrared on it, it can make a difference, but then you are adding external infrared.ĭon't go by the distances they claim the infrared can be seen - that is perfect situation with a wide open shutter and an object not moving.
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